Painting and Decorating Concourse
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Probably the most important step in achieving a smooth, professional finish is the final rub out. It is impossible to get a dust -free, absolutely smooth finish without buffing under most field applied conditions. Can you get a "good enough" finish without a final rub out? Yes, if you've done a good job sanding between each coat prior to the final finish
coat. Yes, If you've vacuumed and tack ragged well before the final finish and if you are working in a somewhat controlled environment where dust disturbance can be keep to a minimum. Yes, if you've kept your brush, bucket and spray gun clean, as well as the filter on your HVLP, so that there is no transferring of debris to the surface.
If you cannot do all the above, or if you are simply wanting the very best of finishes you will need to do a final rub out.
Shellac / Varnish Finishing System
Spray application of lacquer is most of the time impossible in the repaint scenario of a occupied home. Shellac on the other hand, is also fast drying, sprays and brushes well, and the odor is far less objectionable. I use Quick 15(Zinsser) as the varnish component making the whole system quick drying.
Shellac as a Sealer
Once your staining is dry (see the product label - usually overnight, but some stains can be finished after a few hours), you can begin the finishing.
While shellac is suitable for use as a final finish, it is often used as a fast drying sealer before a final coat(s) of varnish. The varnish used in conjunction with shellac must be an oil based varnish (like Quick 15). Polyurethanes and waterbased finishes will not adhere to shellac because it contains a naturally occuring wax. There are special "de-waxed" shellacs that can be used with other finishes, you will have to search a little bit to find these products. One such shellac is Zinsser's Seal Coat, which is re-coatable with most clear finish coats.
Typically, you will apply three coats of finish (or more), in order to get sufficient flim build for a professional looking job. To prevent sanding through the finish and accidentally removing stain, I don't do any sanding until I have applied two coats of shellac. Normally, I will apply two coats of shellac, then sand, then apply a final coat of varnish.
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The Hand Rubbed Satin Finish - part 1
(for interior architectural wood finishing)
There are a number of clear coats that are used with stain work. I have used many of them. The system I prefer and use most of the time is the shellac and varnish system.
The shellac / varnish system works well for brushing or HVLP spray finishing. Many professional painters prefer lacquer for spray finishing because of the fast dry and good spray properties of lacquer. The downside to lacquer is of course, the odor and the inability to brush apply it.
Painting and Decorating Concourse Home > Wood Staining and Finishing > Hand Rubbed Satin Finish Part 1
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