removed (by additional sanding in the direction of the wood grain). Sanding will remove blemishes and pencil marks left behind by the carpenters as well as even out the porosity of the wood for a more uniform finish.
Staining
Once the wood is sanded and wiped clean with a mirco fiber tack cloth or vacuumed, you are ready to stain. As a stain, I like penetrating oil based stains like Minwax’s Wood Finish, because you will get better clarity and see the wood grain detail better.
Wiping stains or gel stains are more opaque and while they are easier to control, they will block out a lot more grain because of the high pigment content of these products. Oil-based stains will not raise the wood grain or cause extractive bleeding like some (many) of the water based stains. See Interior Wood Stains.
Sealing with Shellac
One of the best wood finishing systems and my personal favorite is the shellac and varnish system. With this system you will apply multiple (two or three) coats of shellac as a sealer, then finish off with a coat of varnish. With this system you can be done with all your clear coating (except for the final buff out) in one day.
Shellac is one of my favorite finishes. It is fast drying, adheres to almost anything, and doesn’t require sanding (for adhesion purposes) between coats. Shellac will not re-wet a previously applied oil based stain, as will oil based varnishes and polyurethane. For this reason it is an excellent seal coat.
Regular and De-waxed Shellac
While you can usually re-coat over standard shellac with an oil-based varnish, it is not recommended under any other types of clear coats. Polyurethane and water based clear coats will not adhere properly to standard shellac because it contains a naturally occurring wax in the finish. Standard shellac may be used as a sealer and final finish all by itself, or as a sealer under most standard oil-based varnishes without any adhesion problems
De-Waxed Shellac
If you are not sure about compatibility of your finish coat over shellac (it is always good to test with a cross cut adhesion test first to be sure), then you should use a de-waxed shellac product like Rust-Oleum, Zinsser’s Seal Coat. Seal Coat has the fast re-coat of standard shellac and will not disturb a previously applied oil stain either, but it is also “compatible with ALL clear finishes, including oil-base and water-base polyurethane, lacquer and shellac”.
The value of shellac as a seal coat is that is won’t disturb your stain, and you can build up the finish in a two or three quick drying coats and be ready for final finishing in a matter of a few hours. Shellac can be used as the final finish, but a varnish or polyurethane (over de-waxed shellac) will be more durable and water resistant.
Painting and Decorating Concourse Home > Wood Staining and Finishing > Hand Rubbed Satin Finish Part 1
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A hand rubbed satin finish is one that has been finished with a number of clear coats and then rubbed out with fine sandpaper and / or steel wool to a smooth finish after the final clear coat has dried sufficiently. The result is a smooth, blemish free finish that has a low luster similar to a satin or eggshell sheen.
Preparation
Before you begin staining and finishing you will need to lightly sand the wood with fine grit sandpaper. Sand in the direction of the wood grain at all times, never cross the wood grain or you will get scratches that will need to be
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Pre-Conditioning
Some soft woods may a need pre-stain conditioner for best results. Don’t overdo the conditioner or pre-stain sealer or the wood will not take enough stain. I tend to stay away from pre-stain conditioners for that very reason, but many wood finishers like them. Minwax makes a couple of pre-stain conditioners that are popular with many. See Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Stain Application
Apply the stain with a rag or brush. You will probably need to use a brush for at least part of the staining to get into grooves and contours. Follow up the brush application with a rag wipe. Most oil-based wood stains will need to dry overnight before sealing, see product label for specific drying and coating times for your particular stain. See Wood Finishing page for staining instructions
The Hand Rubbed Satin Finish -part 1
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