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Once the **varnish has dried and cured for a few days (depending on the varnish you use), you can rub out the finish. Start with a light sanding with 400 grit paper - don't over do this and be carefully on edges and corners. You are trying to knock off any burrs and bumps in the varnish only. If you sand too heavily you will sand
The Hand Rubbed Satin Finish -part 3
(for interior architectural wood finishing)
**Note: Use oil based varnish over shellac. Do not use polyurethane or water based acrylics because they will not adhere to shellac. If in doubt Zinsser makes a wax - less shellac called "Seal Coat" use this instead of regular shellac.
through the varnish down to the shellac leaving an "edge" where the two join. If this happens you will need to re-coat the varnish. Keep it light. After this very light sanding, using 0000 steel wool, rub down the surface one final time this will smooth and dull the varnish down to a pleasing soft satin sheen while removing (or hiding) any scratches from the 400 grit sanding.
Waxing with finishing wax
One final note: This method of hand rubbed "satin" finishing, is usually perfect for interior architectural wood including doors and railings etc.... If you are finishing a musical instrument or a fine finish table top, you will probably want to use lacquer and buff it out to a high gloss. Lacquer is similar to shellac in that each coat melts into each other - this type of finish works well for high gloss rubbing, because there are no "layers" of finish. Each coat melts into the previous forming one homogenous clear finish, allowing you to rub away without the problem of rubbing through a particular layer of finish, which will leave a worn through ridge. Regardless, you still have to be careful not to rub all the way through to the stain, or you will have to (skillfully) repair the stain. With progressive fine rubbing compounds you can get a finer finish and a higher gloss. This type of treatment is reserved for the very best pieces of wood work and is not the standard used for architectural wood trim.
If you want to raise the sheen back up a bit while adding a final smoothing touch, apply a coat or two of finishing wax. Paste finishing wax is applied with 0000 steel wool in the direction of the wood grain and after fifteen minutes or so of drying time, is buffed with a clean soft rag or a buffing wheel. It is best to apply two coats. Apply the first coat, let it dry, buff then repeat the process again.
A wax-less finish is a bit easier to maintain in some situations. A waxed surface can smudge (but the smudges easily wipe out with a rag). On the other hand, you can "repair" the gloss of a waxed surface easily by simply rewaxing and buffing it out.
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