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Many painters / paperhangers have had a problem or two over the years when painting / paperhanging over "hot" (chemically reactive- quick setting) drywall compounds.I am not a chemist but I will attempt to explain what I think is the underlying reason(s) for the occasional difficultly, and the rules I use with quick setting drywall compounds.

Quick Setting Drywall Compounds pt.1
"The Rules"
In the days of my youth I used to have problems with the blistering of paint applied over hot compounds. I very rarely have problems anymore since I have implemented "The Rules".

I have seen discussion on some Internet forums amongst my fellow painters and paperhangers that the occasional problem with some quick setting compounds could be a result of "un-reacted plaster" (from incomplete mixing) which in turn "reacts" when it comes in contact with the water from the primer / paint applied over it. In the "reaction" the compound "gasses off" and the gas is the cause of the blistering. I am not (as I have already stated) a chemist, nor the son of a chemist, but I am inclined to believe this could very well be the (a) reason for this problem. So this leads to rule #1.

Rule #1: Don't prime/paint directly over quick set compound.

I know this doesn't take a PhD. to figure out - but it took me longer than I am willing to admit to implement this rule. If I have no problems priming/painting over Spackle or "regular" drywall compound AND since I have had the occasional problem with quick set compound, then it only makes sense to prime/paint over "regular" mud and Spackle and not to prime/paint directly over "hot" mud. I use quick set compounds all the time - life would be miserable without them. I just don't prime/paint over them directly unless the job is so urgent that I can't wait for overnight dry (then I mix and mix and remix to be sure I have no un-reacted plaster in my mix). The "system" I use for drywall repair (for larger repairs) is: quick set, quick set, then regular compound.




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