Bin is a shellac primer. It is a solvent primer, but not an oil primer. The resin is shellac as opposed to oil. Like oil primer, shellac is not waterbased, but uses a solvent to dissolve and suspend the primer resin. The solvent with shellac is denatured alcohol, not mineral spirits. One very nice advantage of shellac primer is that it cleans up with ammonia and water.
Ideal new wood primer
Bin will seal the porosity of the raw wood, preventing absorption of the finish paint. This is referred to in the painting trade as “hold out”. Another great advantage of shellac primer is that it is not re-wettable by the finish paint (either oil or latex). When a fresh coat of primer or paint is applied to a substrate, it can be re-wetted by the solvent in the subsequent paint when it is applied over the top of it.
Re-wetting the underlying primer will sometimes cause the paint applied over top to set up too quickly, interfering with the flow, leveling and blending of the paint. Shellac is not re-wettable with either mineral spirits from oil based finish paint, or water, from latex paint. The result is better flow, leveling and working time of the finish paint or enamel.
Quick dry and fast recoat
Bin will be dry in one hour and ready to be recoated.
Two coats is best
You can get away with one coat of primer with production work, but for the finest finish you should prime twice. You don’t need to sand between coats of primer, you will sand after the second coat of primer and before the finish paint goes down.
(oil-less) tack cloth. Don’t use a standard tack cloth that contains oil, which can interfere with the adhesion of the finish paint.
You are ready to paint
You can over-coat shellac primer with latex or oil based paint.
Previously painted wood
Shellac adheres to almost any painted finish without the need for priming, but the substrate MUST be clean. Clean the substrate with a good cleaner and degreaser like Krud Kutter. Spray the Krud Kutter on the substrate and scour with scour pad, then wipe clean with clean paper towel.
Note: Don’t scour pre-1978 painted surfaces which may contain lead paint, simply spray on, and wipe off and repeat.
Sanding
After priming, you will need to sand the wood to cut down any raised grain, and to smooth before the final finish paint is applied. Use 220 grit sandpaper for most surfaces, and sand in the direction of the wood grain. On uneven or contoured wood (like spindles of a railing) you can use a fine scouring pad for smoothing.
Vacuum and tack
Clean up the area and the wood itself by vacuuming with a shop vacuum equipped with a HEPA filter.
Clean up all the dust from the wood with the vacuum, then follow that up with a wipe down with a micro fiber
Please read lead paint warning if your house was built before 1978
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Best Interior Wood Primer
BIN Shellac Primer
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