Painting and Decorating Concourse
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Maple Woodgraining
The base coat for our maple is a orange buff color as shown above, the glaze is a deep carmel brown.
The base coat can be tinted 123 bullseye primer or shellac (BIN) primer. The glaze can be oil or latex (Modern Masters Tintable Glaze).
The undergrain is a thin lightly dragged background. The dragged grain can be straight grain (slightly meandering) or heart grain. Keep the dragged grain light. Drag off most of the glaze by using a dry brush (almost) sideways to remove most of the glaze, this will keep the dragged grain light and subtle. Re-trace with a good dragging brush through the glaze. A fan fitch or chip brush will do for this. You want very faint light lines for the background.
Allow this layer to dry overnight, then proceed to the primary graining layer.
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Base Coat & Undergraining
Graining (primary)
The primary glaze is just a blochy, mottled graining layer. This layer is done with a curly or straight mottler.
Apply a thin layer of glaze (same color as the undergraining glaze), and drag it out with a dry brush. After the glaze is dragged out, you will mottle the whole surface with a motttler. See Mottling. Hold the mottler almost straight up and in a snaking and bouncing action, mottle the grain out.
The mottling should look rythmic in areas and random in others. Once this layer is done you can either overgrain or "call it done" and proceed to clear coating with a coat of satin Polycylic.
Overgraining
Birdseye Maple
You can do a Birdseye Maple by overgraining with various round brushes of a few different sizes to put the "eyes" in over the top of the mottled graining.
Make the eyes with the same carmel brown glaze, you can add a little black to it for some darker eyes, you can do some softer eyes by dabbing the eyes with a soft rag to soften them.
The eyes can be dotted on with a fine round brush, or some use the spine of a feather (cut the spine with scissors to open the hollow center, then insert a small piece of sponge into the hollow). Dip the spine into the glaze and dab and dot the eyes on. Soften the eyes by dabbing with a soft rag and/or plastic. Plastic will open up the eyes and break up the glaze.
Splicing - creating "boards"
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Splicing is done by taping off the joints on a larger piece. You can do a "fiddle back" type of book matched pieces by mimicking the mottled grain on one side - and reversing it on the other side of the joint.
Splicing can be done to break up large pieces into smaller boards, or it can be (actually must be) done at natural joints where wood pieces would normally join and change directions - such as the rails and stiles on a door.
I like to use the brown paper tape for this. When taping joints, you will grain alternating "boards" on one day, then the other "boards" on the next day.
Professional Painted Finishes
One of the very best books on wood graining. Great instruction and beautifully illustrated .
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