Painting and Decorating Concourse
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Faux Leather Painted Finishes
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Tools & Materials:
How to Paint
Faux Leather Finishes
- 2" latex brush (used in lieu of the Stippler in small narrow areas)
- Cotton rags
- Roller, roller grid, and 5 gallon bucket or roller pan
- Short nap roller cover (1/4")
Base Coat / Glaze:
Click here to see Universal Surface Preparation Rules:
Faux leather finishes are achieved by using bright base coat colors and using a deep, dark (or even black) glaze over the top of these bright base coat colors.
Below are the base coat colors and glaze colors for doing: red, green, blue and brown leather finishes.
Base coat
Glaze color
Technique:
In essence, the leather faux finishes are negative ragging finishes that are softened with a block stippler. The base coats are usually bright colors, and the glaze/paint colors are very dark hues of the base coat color (or just plain black).
Read the instructions for Negative Ragging.
Working in standard 4' x 4' sections, and starting at one end of the wall, you will work from one end of the wall toward the other end. Start by rolling the glaze/paint mix on to the 4' x 4' section of wall using a short nap roller.
Next, rag off the glaze in the usual negative ragging method. Follow this up by softening the ragging with a block stippler, stippling the surface in a random manner. Do not stipple the whole surface uniformly, just a little here and there to randomly soften the ragging.
Repeat the above steps until the wall is completed.
Note: This is a negative technique so you must work from one end of the wall to the other without stopping or you will get lap marks.
Use the alternate wall sequencing for this technique, taping off the adjacent walls with paper tape when dry.
Base coat paint and glazing paint.
I use a eggshell sheen latex base coat with a oil glaze over the top. This system takes advantage of the quick drying latex base coat, which allows for same day glazing. The oil glaze will give you longer working time and will not "re-wet" the freshly dried latex base coat. Sherwin Williams Promar 200 eggshell latex paint works well as a base coat. For the glaze I use Sherwin Williams Illusions alkyd glaze with an oil satin paint (Promar 200 oil eggshell will work). Mix about 1 part paint to 1 part glaze and thin with about 1/2 to 1 part mineral spirits ( often the mix will be about 1 paint, 1 part glaze, and 1/2 part mineral spirits - but add the thinner a little at a time until it is the right viscosity and avoid over- thinning ).
Can you use a latex glaze with this technique?
Yes, but allow overnight drying (at least) of the eggshell sheen base coat before glazing. There is the potential of the latex glaze re-wetting the latex base coat causing the glaze to set up too quick and / or a meshing of the two together. If you can wait a couple of days between base coating, it will help prevent any re-wetting of the base coat.
You can do this technique with Modern Masters Latex Extender. Add 1 part satin latex paint to 4 parts extender. Modern Masters Latex Extender has a lot of open time.
Another technique known as "Frottage" (French "to rub") is used to create faux leather. With this method, sheets of plastic are placed on the wet glaze, smoothed down and then pulled off, leaving a creased and mottled "leather" appearance.
With this method, you will base coat and glaze as in the previous manner, working in 4' X 4' sections. Instead of ragging the glaze and stippling it, you will place a sheet of plastic onto the wet glaze, manipulate it with your hands to "wrinkle" it (while on the wall), and then pull it off.
Technique
- Apply you glaze to a 4' X 4' section of wall
- Lay plastic sheeting on wall and manipulate the plastic while on the wall by pushing it around to create a crumpled and wrinkled appearance. The plastic will cling to the wet glaze keeping it on the wall as you manipulate the plastic.
- Smooth the plastic down with a soft wallpaper smoother. Don’t try to smooth out all the air bubbles and wrinkles - that is part of the "look".
- Remove the plastic sheet from the wall.
- Follow up with an crumpled piece of (inked) plastic, dabbing it on the surface to break up any harsh lines, and to soften the overall look.
- Move on to the next 4' X 4' section and repeat.
Notes:
- Use thin drop cloth plastic. The thinner the plastic, the easier it is to manipulate.
- You can use fabrics or burlap instead of plastic for a little different look.
- "Inking" is a term used to describe pre-wetting a removal "tool" (plastic in this case), which prevents it from removing too much glaze.
Alternate Technique: (Frottage)
Green, Blue and Medium Brown Faux Leather Samples
Burgandy Red Faux Leather Finish
Faux
Tools
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floggers, badger brushes, woodgraining tools ...
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