Painting and Decorating Concourse
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SM
Walnut is a nice tight grained wood that can be done in one step. Although not an absolute requirement, a second layer adds more detail and realism to the work.
I do Walnut using primarily negative dragging techniques. To this I add some mottling and highlighting with a liner brush.
Because walnut is grained with a brush, it works well on surfaces with contours and odd profiles. A brush will conform to uneven surfaces better than for instance, a graining pad would.
Walnut Woodgraining
Apply the base coat to a properly prepared substrate, allow it to dry and then proceed to the undergraining.
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Base Coat & Undergraining
Base coat color
For the base coat I use either Zinnser's oil based Coverstain, or 123 Bullseye Deep Tint Primer (latex). You can use a satin sheen latex also. Tint the primer or paint to match the color swatches shown above. Use the "orange" base for a warmer walnut color and the "gold" base for a more neutral walnut color. Do not exceed the recommended tint allowance for either product.
Glaze color
My preferred glaze is Modern Master's waterbased glaze, particularly if I am doing a two layer graining. If doing one layer, or if you have lots of time to come back to the graining, you can use Old Master's Wiping Stain, or Pratt -N- Lambert's oil glaze (or Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams oil glaze for that matter).
The "undergraining' background can be done by a simple flogging. Apply the brown glaze to the surface and "stretch the glaze out" by dragging with a dry brush to keep the background light. Once the glaze is dragged and stretched out, flog it with a flogger (a large brush can be used if a flogger is not available). Allow the flogging to dry overnight if using Modern Masters glaze. If you are using oil glaze, especially Old Master's Wiping Stain, you may need to give it 2 days or longer before overgraining.
Graining
Tools:
- Fan Fitch
- 3" or 4" Chip Brush
- Mottler or Wavy Mottler
- Liner Brush
Depending on the size of the surface you are graining, either a fan fitch or a chip brush will do a good job of graining. Apply the glaze thinly with a standard 2 or 3 in brush and drag it out with the fitch or chip brush as described below.
The cheap, chip brushes will shed bristles, so be careful to remove them from your work. Use the better grade chip brushes which do not shed, these will save you a lot of aggravation in terms of pulling loose bristles off of your work.
Straight grain walnut graining - see "Woodgraining with a Brush" for techniques suitable for walnut
Heart Grain
(this is a "half" heart grain on this sample
Straight Grain
The Heart Grain
Use the chip brush in a 45 degree angle transitioning to a 90 degree angle at the top of the apex, and then to the opposite 45 degree angle on the way "down" from the apex. Use the flat side of the bristles to drag out the heart grain. Once dragged, you can add dark thin grain highlights with a liner brush at intervals of two inches or so.
The Straight Grain
The straight grain is dragged with a "bounce and a wiggle" in a slight meandering way. Once dragged, you can go over the top with a wavy mottler to add mottling here and there. See Mottling
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Wavy Mottler
Clear Coat Finishing
I like Minxax Polycrylic satin for a finish coat. You can use shellac or oil varnish also if you'd like. One coat is usually adequate for the job.. Don't use lacquer over woodgraining glaze - the solvents are too strong, and it will likely lift the graining.
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How to Angle the Brush When Dragging Out the Heart Grain
Base coat color
A "warm" walnut can be made using an orange cast base coat
Note: If you are matching to a particular walnut see how to match wood graining see "Color Matching for Wood Graining"
Background - undergraining
Brush graining is very tight and doesn't show a lot of background through it. Nevertheless, walnut graining does look better with a background of wood pores. To create the pores you can do a flogged background using the same glaze as you will use for the primary grain. Keep the flogging light. You will keep the flogging light if you "stretch" the glaze out after you apply it with a dry brush, before you flog it. See Flogging
Deep Brown Walnut Woodgraining
Over a very light flogged background, the fine grain lines were added by dragging through the glaze with a fitch brush.
A third wash coat (very thin) layer of brown glaze was then applied and mottled with a wavy mottler.
Click on image to enlarge
