The most common reason paint peels on a ceiling is either from a water leak or as in the case of bathroom ceiling peeling, high humidity. In the case of a water leak, there may be mold issues that need to be dealt with (which we will not go into in this column). In lieu of such problems, you may want to tackle the repair job yourself. I have outlined the repair process as I do it. The following is applicable where there are no mold problems caused from a water leak, and it is intended for post-1978 homes where there are no lead paint concerns to deal with.
Remove the loose paint
The loose paint will go beyond what is already peeling. You will need to remove the paint as far back as you can go until you reach firmly attached paint. To peel the paint back you need to take a 4” spackle knife and push it into the loose paint perimeter and pry off the paint until you meet firmly adhering paint. You need to probe and pry all along the perimeter of the peeling paint border until you have all the loose paint removed.
Catching the paint chips
I hold a roller pan under my spackle knife as I probe and pry off the paint to help catch the loosen paint chips. This helps in keeping the work area cleaner than just letting the paint drop onto the drip cloth below. Use a one time disposable paper drop cloth for this job. When you are done you can roll it up and throw it out with all the debris (that you weren’t able to catch in the roller pan).
Wear a dust mask
For the first coats of the skimming I use quick setting compound. Apply the compound in a thin smooth layer. I mix the compound right inside the drywall pan, then apply it with a suitable sized drywall knife. You will probably use a 6” (at a minimum) to 12’ broad knife for skimming your spots. Let the first coat dry, then apply a second coat. The third coat should be an all purpose or topping drywall compound. The all purpose or topping compound will be easier to sand, but it must dry overnight.
Sanding
Sanding drywall compound can be a real mess unless you take steps to address the sanding dust. Ceilings, because of the height, are the worst for making a mess. The best way to address the sanding dust problem is to catch it at the point on generation. I use a regular shop vacuum, equipped with a HEPA filter and a fine dust collection bag. In conjunction with the HEPA filtered shop vacuum, I use a sanding attachment made by Fibatape to sand the repairs. This system makes for virtually dust free drywall sanding. After sanding, I will use a vacuum brush attachment and vacuum the spots themselves to remove any residual dust from the patches.
Prime
Always prime drywall compound. For a number of reasons I would use a stain blocking oil primer as my primer in this situation. The primer will block any water soluable stains, as well as prevent the drywall compound from being rewetted by the high humidity of a steamy bathroom.
Paint
Once primed you may paint with any paint of your choice. If you are repairing a bathroom ceiling I would recommend using Zinsser’s Perma White interior paint. Originally formulated for, and called “bathroom paint”, it is very moisture resistant and adheres to most clean painted surfaces without the need for deglossing.
When the loose paint is removed you will have a large (to a greater or lesser degree) somewhat circular “void” where the paint has been peeled back to either the drywall / plaster or an underlying paint coat. You need to patch this area.
Skim coating
You will need to smooth out the voids and bring it level to the surface by skim coating the spot(s) with patching compound. If the void is back to the smooth plaster you should prime first with a quick dry oil primer like Coverstain. Allow the primer to dry before patching.
Please read lead paint warning if your house was built before 1978
How to Repair Peeling Ceiling Paint
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