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Ribbon Mahogany
Woodgraining
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Ribbon Mahogany often called "African" Ribbon Mahogany because of it's origins, is one of the most popular "cuts" of mahogany. Ribbon Mahogany is not exclusive to Africa, some ribbon mahogany comes from Honduras also.
The "ribbon" grain is achieved by quarter sawing the Mahogany (see Quarter Sawn Oak for explanation of this sawing method). The ribbons interlace into each other, and have a "shimmer" to them which causes them to reflect light differently as you change your viewing angle of the wood.
Tools & Materials:
Prepare the Sample Board
(We will practice graining on an illustration board)
Sample Board Instructions:
For sample board preparation you will need to prime the front of the board to water proof it which will help to prevent the board from curling when you apply the base coat.
Use the foam (or synthetic bristle) brush to apply the BIN primer to the sample board. Brush in the direction of the wood grain, which in this case, will be from the top of the board to the bottom.
Base Coat
Base coat color should be similar to this color chip
Sample Board Instructions:
Prime and base coat your sample board with Bullseye 1 2 3 deep tint primer - match it to the base coat color sample shown to the left. Apply two coats and allow the first coat 1 hour to dry before applying the second.
Real life application tip
Bullseye will stick to most glossy surfaces. If you are going to grain over an oil base painted, glossy surface, clean the surface with "Dirtex", or a "no-rinse" type of cleaner, then prime it with "Coverstain" before base coating with 1 2 3 Bullseye
Fast Dry Base Coating
The base coat is the beginning of the wood grain process and serves as the background for your wood graining. For the most part, I use nothing but quick drying primers for base coats. Ideally you want a base coat that you can grain over the same day, which will expedite the job along.. The base coat / primers that I use for fast graining are: Zinsser’s Bullseye 123, which is a latex primer, B-I-N pigmented shellac - depending on the surface that is being base coated, and which graining glaze I am using. These primers are tinted for the purpose of base coating.
Base coats can be applied with a roller on large areas but should always be “laid off” with a brush in the direction of the wood grain. A roller stippled base coat under your graining will make it look as fake as a three dollar bill , so always lay off (smooth it out with the tips of a brush) the base coat if you choose to roll it on.
Base coat and glaze systems
My preferred woodgraining glaze is the Modern Masters (latex) Tintable Glaze. You should base coat with Zinsser’s Bullseye 123 if using the MM Tintable Glaze. Should you need more working time, you may want to use an oil based glaze. Additionally, if you don't want to tint the glaze, but would prefer to use a premixed glaze, I would recommend using the Old Masters (oil) Wiping Stain, which comes in several premixed colors. For ribbon mahogany, you would use a mix of Spanish Oak and Red Mahogany to arrive at your final glaze color. When using oil glaze, you can (should) use B-I-N as your base coat - unless the surface you are graining is not suitable for shellac primer. B-I-N is somewhat brittle and is not suitable for surfaces that flex. See B-I-N label and/or product data page for further details concerning product use.
Allow the base coat to dry two hours minimum drying time (if using Bullseye deep tint) before proceeding to the next step of under glazing.
Base Coated Sample Board
Under Graining - The Background Grain
Glaze Color
Color Matching Rules
- Base Coat should match the lightest color in the wood you are imitating. See Color Matching for Woodgraining.
- Glaze color should match the darkest color in the wood you are imitating.
Sample Board Instructions:
Apply the glaze in the direction of the wood grain. In the case of your sample board apply glaze from top to bottom of the board. Do not apply too much glaze to the board, it is best to keep it thin and "stretch" the glaze out with a dry brush after applying the glaze. This will keep the background light -as it should be. Wipe your brush dry in a paper towel (only if using a latex glaze, don't do this if using an oil glaze - as you will be creating a solvent laden rag which would be spontaneously combustible) after dragging it through the glaze every few strokes.
Graining - The Primary Grain
Glaze: Same as for under graining
Apply the glaze to the whole board and drag it out.
Using the sides of the bristles of a 1" chip brush, hold the brush horizontally with the handle between the thumb and index finger. Using the brush as such, you will drag off the glaze to form the interlacing ribbon bands characteristic of ribbon mahogany. Starting at the top of the board and drag off the glaze toward the middle of the board, then starting at the bottom and drag off the glaze from the bottom toward the middle of the board. Work your way across the whole board alternating this way from top to middle and then from bottom to middle. Occasionally drag from one end to the other. The bands should intersect in the middle of the board - but not all in the exact spot in the middle of the board - vary this up a bit. Occasionally run a band from one end to the other without intersecting in the middle.
Add a dark streak here and there
Using a black glaze add a dark steak here and there to highlight and add interest. Look at real mahogany, it frequently has these darks streaks in it. Add the streaks, and then drag through them with a dry brush to break up the color.
Mottle the whole board
Using a wavy mottler, mottle the whole board from top to bottom in a "snaking" "S" figure, this will break up the bands a bit and add some mottling. See Mottling.
Modern Masters Tintable Glaze
Primed Sample Board
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Basecoats
The three basecoats that I use for woodgraining are:
- Bin Primer
- 123 Bullseye Primer
- Coverstain Primer
Glaze
The three glaze products that I use for woodgraining are:
- Modern Masters (waterbased)
- Sherwin Williams
(oil based)
- Old Masters Wiping Stain
(pre-mixed colors oil based glaze)
Flogging Technique
Starting at the bottom of the sample board, pat the glaze with the flat side of the flogging brush, working your way to the top of the board. Flog the whole board from bottom to top in this manner until the whole board is complete. See Flogging.
Allow this flogged background to dry overnight.
Glaze Color
Base Coat Color
Woodgrain Flogger
A deep black red ( you can use black too - or add black accents)
Black accents
A Coral color works well as does red for a base coat
Wavy Mottler
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You will also need:
- Foam or synthetic brush for applying the B I N primer
- Illustration board
- 2" latex paint brush for applying glaze to the board
- 2" or 3" brush to dry brush dragging out the glaze
- 1" chip brush
- 1 Qt. 1-2-3 Bullseye Deep Tint primer tinted to match the base coat color color below
- 1 Qt of B I N pigmented shellac primer
