There are a wide range of visitors to this site, many are beginners I'm sure and are confused as to some of the basics of faux finishing. So, not willing to leave anyone behind, I am going to explain some of the elemental topics from time to time in an article, this is one of those articles.
Faux finishing glaze - What is is? Why do you need it? Who makes the best? When do I need to use it? How to use it?
What exactly is glaze?
Faux finishing glaze is simply a clear latex or oil "medium" which is either mixed with latex or oil paint or is tinted and used exclusively without any paint, for faux finishing.
Why do you need to use glaze?
Glaze in short, is used to make the paint hold a pattern. With faux finishing, you are manipulating the paint/glaze to pattern it in some fashion, whether it is a wall finish or wood graining or marbling. Paint by itself, will flow out to a level, brush stroke free finish. This is how paint manufacturers design their paint and we do want these attributes when we are using paint - to paint. But, when we are faux finishing, we need the paint to hold a pattern - hence the advent of glaze. Glaze will "stiffen" the paint, not allowing it to flow out. Some glazes are better than other for this purpose. Oil glazes generically, have more "flow back" than latex glazes. Latex (paint or glaze) as a general rule doesn't flow out as well as oil. Oil enamels across the board, will usually out perform any latex enamel in leveling, it is a characteristic or oil. Oil glazes, being "oil" have some of the same characteristic properties as oil paint.
Another reason glaze is used is to add transparency to the paint, so that you can see through it. This allows colors of different layers to interact with each other.
When I don't want any flow back or leveling is in my woodgraining. I want a very stiff glaze for woodgraining and therefore glaze is a must for this type of faux finish. Woodgrain is all about detail. The detail you put into the graining must "stay put" or you will lose it or have to redo it constantly in the process of doing the woodgrain.
A partial list of faux finishes that I use or don't use glaze for:
- Negative ragging -yes
- Positive ragging - no as a rule, I might for transparency though on occasion
- Sponging - no
- Faux Italian Plaster - no
- Stripes - no, you can reduce film build and ridging by using glaze though
- Woodgraining - yes
- Marbleizing - yes
- Any type of "graphic" finish (dots, masked designs, squares, stripes) - no
- Leathers - yes
- Linen / Strie - yes
- Crackle - no
- Gilding / gold leaf - no
- Specialty finishes: (copper patina, tortoise shell, clouds, malachite) - yes
- Stenciling no and yes
- Venetian plaster - no
As a rule, negative techniques will require glaze and positive techniques (done in latex) may not.
How to use glaze? and What are the best glazes? (in my humble opinion)
Latex: My favorite latex glaze is Modern Masters Tintable glaze. Excellent stiffness and good drying properties. You can glaze over this one the next day with another layer without ripping up the underlying layer. Absolutely the best latex glaze that I have used. I don't do anything to this glaze. I don't add extenders, water or anything - simply tint and use. Another great product is Modern Masters Extender. The Extender you add to paint to create a paint/glaze. I don't add anything to this one either - just paint. The same is true with Sherwing Williams Illusions latex glaze, just add it to the paint period. I use the MM Tintable glaze for woodgrainining, MM Extender for some marbleizing ( I use oil often for marble for it's softness of appearance), and for wall finishes either SW Illusions or MM Extender. MM Extender has good working time, so with a negative technique I would use MM Extender - not SW Illusions
Oil: I like Pratt-n-Lambert or SW oil glaze. The sheen is low - eggshell, which looks better for wall finishes. It doesn't matter for marble or woodgrain as they will be clear coated anyway. These glazes hold pattern pretty well. (Modern Masters Tintable Glaze is the best for pattern detail) Oil glaze needs to be thinned with mineral spirits to be useable.
My favorite glaze mixes:
(and the base coats I use with them)
Oil / Alkyd Glazes
Paint glaze 1
1/3 oil satin paint (tinted paint)
1/3 mineral spirits
1/3 oil glaze (SW or Pratt-n-Lambert)
Good for negative wall techniques and marbling
Base coats: BIN, Tinted Clear Shellac, Clear Shellac, Latex satin sheen paint
Clear glaze
½ oil glaze (Sw or Pratt-n-Lambert)
½ mineral spirits
Tint with oil colors or universal colorants
Good for wood graining and marbling
Base coats: BIN, Tinted Clear Shellac, Clear Shellac, Latex satin sheen paint
Varnish glaze
1/3 oil based varnish
1/3 mineral spirits
1/3 penetrol
Tint with oil colors or universal colorants
Good for wood graining or marbling
Base coats: BIN, Tinted Clear Shellac, Clear Shellac, Latex satin sheen paint
To "doctor" your oil glaze you can:
- add more glaze to the mix to stiffen it up
- add more thinner to loosen the mix
- add boiled linseed oil for longer working time (slightly longer - don't add too much as it will retard final drying and recoating time also)
Waterbased Glazes
Clear glaze
Acrylic glaze (Modern Masters Tintable Glaze)
Use “as is” straight from container
Tint with universal colorants
Excellent for wood graining
Base coats: 123 Bullseye, Coverstain, Latex satin sheen paint
Paint glaze 1
Latex Glaze (SW Illusions etc…)
1 part latex satin paint (tinted paint)
4 parts latex glaze
Good for wall techniques (faster dry and set up)
Base coats: Latex satin sheen paint
Paint glaze 2
Modern Masters Extender
1 part latex satin paint (tinted paint)
4 parts MM extender
Very good for negative or positive wall techniques (slower dry and set up)
Base coats: Latex satin sheen paint, BIN
Other Glazes
Premixed glaze
Old Master’s Wiping Stain
Use straight from container -comes in assorted wood stain color
Can be intermixed to make any color
(helpful to add 1pt oil glaze to 4 pts wiping stain to give it better pattern hold but not absolutely necessary)
Good for wood graining (can match wood grain to staining using the same stain) very long working time and dry.
Base coats: BIN, 123 Bullseye, Latex satin sheen paint
Do you always need to use glaze when faux finishing?
No. There are some faux finishes that you can do without glaze added to your paint. The specialty paints: suede paint for example, doesn't require glaze to accomplish the finish. I never use glaze for sponge painting or roller blending as in the Faux Italian Plaster Technique. I use latex for these finishes and latex paint itself has a bit of stiffness built into the paint itself. Absolute stiffness is not required for these finishes either. A little flow back is acceptable in some finishes and even desired at times.
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