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The most basic rule when installing wallpaper is to "hang it straight".  There are times when you may want to consider whether to "hang it straight" or to hang it to appear to be "straight" because the ceiling line or window casing may not be quite plumb or level. In this article we will review the basics of how to hang wallpaper plumb and level.

Sometimes, if you look at the wallcovering installation done by an inexperienced paperhanger and you will see the pattern running up or down at the ceiling line.  The seams may be tight and matched up well, but the pattern gradually runs one way or the other along the length of the wall.




















The 4' level is the all purpose level, I personally wouldn't use anything smaller than a 4' level (unless it just won't fit into a space - then I use the torpedo which is better than nothing) - the longer the level, the more accurate the line will be.  Equally important as using a good level, is taking your time to read it correctly.  Make sure the bubble is centered.

The Laser Level
These days I use the laser level a lot of the time.  It gives me a long line and  I don't even need to use my pencil.  I will usually pencil in the plumb line using the 4' level and use the laser level for the horizontal level line (w/o having to mark it with a pencil).

The Plumb Line:
The plumb line is a true and straight vertical line.  Plumb lines are always "up and down" ("level" lines are always horizontal).  Always  start with a plumb line when beginning the installation on a job and after turning a corner and starting down a new wall. When beginning your installation never start directly in a corner, it probably isn't true vertical.  Instead start out on the wall with a true plumb line and work your way back to the corner and then forward towards the next corner. 

The Level Line:
The purpose of the level line is to give you a true horizontal line to line your pattern up with rather than using the ceiling line (which may not be level) for this.  Just as I don't use the inside corner of the wall as a plumb line, I don't use the ceiling line as a level line.  Your level line should be near the ceiling, maybe 6"- 12" down from it. I use a laser for this line but you can use your carpenter's level for this and pencil it in. The level line will run through your pattern at the same spot on every strip (on a straight match-every other strip for drop match), regardless of how the drywall corner at the ceiling runs.

If you make a mistake and for whatever reason (probably because you used only the plumb line and not both plumb and level lines) your paper starts to run up or down you can correct this by 1) reestablishing a true plumb line 2). slightly over lapping your seam and double cutting it. If your paper is for instance 20.5" wide, draw a plumb line with your level a bit longer than 20.5" from the last seam for your guide, and still using your level line to line up the pattern properly,. slightly overlap your paper (maybe 1/8th of an inch or so - depends on how much correction needs to be made) and double cut this seam. This will re-establish the plumb and level of your job (at the expense of the seam that you had to double cut) and you may continue on down the wall as you were  The double cut seam will probably not be noticeable and double cut seams always join up very nicely.

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How to Hang Wallpaper Plumb and Level
"Straight" = Plumb + Level
As simple as it may sound, there are two lines that keep the paper "straight": the plumb line and the level line.  Some paperhangers use just a plumb line, but you will never go wrong using both.

Using a Level:
The level is an important tool for the paperhanger, it is best to buy a good level and take care of it. Levels come in various lengths (2', 4' ,6' and 8' as well as small 6"- 9"  torpedo levels) I use a 9" torpedo level, 4' carpenter's level and a laser level.  The torpedo level is good for small areas where a 4' level won't fit into.   
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